Introductory dog training guide
This is intended to be a basic and easy introduction to dog training.  
By reading this Manual and utilizing the included training instruction, you agree to not hold us liable for any situation surrounding you, your dog, anyone else, or their dogs.  
You should always seek to work with a professional for hands on guidance. 

Luring with food
Luring is an art. When you first get your new pup, provide food from your hand.  This will teach your dog to follow your hand, which is the foundation for shaping the behaviors you want to teach. Shaping is done through successive approximation to add value to specific occurrences.
 in time it is best done with a marker system.

Marker system: Affirming
"Yes"/Click: this is your continuous reward marker; it means you did the right thing and you have completed the task, here is your paycheck.
To teach yes, you should have a good lure with your dog, meaning they will actively pursue rewards from you.  Gain your dogs attention, be completely still and then say "Yes!" And provide a reward quickly after the verbal "yes."  repeat until you get a change of behavior in your dog.
"Good": start by working continuously and move into variance in a fixed schedule. you will say "good" and reward every other time. this will be stretched further and brought back down the road. 
Marker system: Denying
"Aht"/"uh-uh": this communicates to your pup that he or she did not do the correct thing, but It does not lead to punishment.  it can indicate "no," but it does not indicate that your dog will receive punishment. We want to be as positive as we can be in learning so that we encourage our dogs to continue to try new behaviors. lots of corrections will hinder learning early on.
"No": this is taught in the same way that "yes" is, just on the opposite end of the spectrum. "no" will indicate punishment, and will communicate, "Stop doing what you are doing or there will be repercussions." The following punishment, negative reinforcement can be utilized.  A correction can be something like a pop on the leash or a gentle e-collar vibration or stimulus. Absolutely do not just throw on an e-collar you will confuse your dog.   Find your dogs level of correction and dial it back through indicative learning in correction series of escalation.  Think of your speedometer; you cannot automatically start your car at 50mph. your correction should not start here. Each correction should indicate a slightly stronger correction and repeat. Some dogs' level of correction is 5 while others are 25; every dogs perception and thresholds are different.
Crate manners
A quiet Crate 101:  for crate manners, absolutely do not reward howling or barking.
 By letting your dog out during these behavioral occurrences, you have rewarded them. they will be more likely to reoccur because your pup knows it works. This will result in an exacerbation of anxiety.  
Imagine this: your dog is crying, and you are coming in as a hero to soothe the behavior. "oh, my goodness, the worst thing in the world is happening! let me save you my darling baby!"  
The crate is for your puppy's protection. it is negligent to allow your puppy freedom to consume electrical cords, and foreign bodies while you are gone because you are anti-crating.
potty training
first schedule your fluid and food intake.  I always offer at least double the daily recommendation of 1floz to 1lb body weight or more. 
Free water and food = harder to regulate bowels and bladder.   
Once you feed and give water to your puppy, set your timer.  Doing this will give you an approximation of the potty schedule.  
You will do a couple of things to potty train: start with a crate just large enough to lay down in. if your puppy has enough space to potty and get away from it, your puppy will never learn.  When you are out in the house, tether your dog to you. if you give them the freedom to learn to go off and potty in the house, they will!  
Utilize your yes command and reward with high value reward to reinforce going potty outside.
Jumping
Everyone and their grandmother pets their puppy when they jump on them.   
You may ignore it, or you can correct it. if you praise it, it will reoccur.  If you ignore it and it continually occurs, the behavior is rewarding in nature and self-reinforcing, you need to gently correct the behavior and offer alternative options for your dog to receive attention
mouthing manners
Mouthing (biting)  -  your puppy likely thinks biting you is the best thing since sliced bread.
if you play wrestle with just your hands you are encouraging the biting.  Be sure to offer them something different to bite, like a rag or a tug toy. 
If they continually bite you, you can put your thumb under their tongue or pick them up and put them in a time out. Different things work for different dogs.
Luring and marking commands through successive approximation
DO NOT USE ANY VERBAL COMMANDS IF YOUR DOG DOES NOT KNOW THEM ALREADY. YOU ARE TEACHING YOUR DOG TO TUNE IT OUT. 
Come when called:  your dog already knows to follow your hand. Stay still, extend your hand to your dog, pull your hand back towards you. When your dog moves in your direction, mark and reward. Repeat. 
Sit:  move your hand above your dog's head. Spend a little time to see if they will sit all the way down. if all you get is slightly bent legs, reward their and repeat.  Continue to try and withhold slightly longer until you get a seated position. once your dog readily returns to it and understands, you can move into variance in rewards.  You are also ready to teach your verbal commands.
Down: lure from your dog's nose downward.  If all you get is the head a little lower pointing to the ground reward at this point, repeat until you get to the down.  If your dog stands up, this is an excellent time for an "aht" or "uh-uh" and try again.
Stay: stand still and slightly move a body part. if your dog does not move, give a reward. Try a different body motion, reward stillness. Exaggerate the motion and continue to reward. When your dog moves (and they will), do not get frustrated... they are learning!  Give an "aht" or "uh-uh" and take them back to the same spot And try again.  
Come: reach your hand out to your dog and pull them into you. reward for motion and repeat. 
Heel: reward your dog when its shoulder is aligned with your left leg. Use your lure to guide them to the space. reward and repeat. 
Mitigation of pressure (M.O.P.) & leash walking
M.O.P  -  mitigation of pressure is inherently aversive to your dog due to their oppositional reflex. When We are trapped with something around our neck and we will naturally back out of it to escape it. When this happens, go back to your continual rewards with a come when called lure.  I utilize a slip lead or slip collar; it is my personal favorite in training because of its communication capabilities.  
As you add pressure, the collar will tighten, and you need to teach your dog to respond to this in a proper manner.  As they receive the slightest of pressure from you, reach out and offer guidance with your come when called lure. Repeat and reward with a high-value treat like cooked chicken or a hot dog since this is counter conditioning.  Counter conditioning is taking something that is a perceptional negative and continually correlating it to something that is very rewarding.  What we fear gets us something good, so we are more willing to overcome this.  
Now that we have overcome the pressure with come when called and we have practiced heel off a leash, we can now add in our slip collar. Use gentle pressure guidance to reinforce that you must stay in the space of a heel while walking on-leash. 
Think of the game kids play, red-light/green-light.  In green space, you reward your dog, this is your bubble of heeling.  In red space, your dog is pulling ahead, lagging or dragging out to the side. 
Utilize your lure into heel and application of pressure. Repeat until you no longer need any pressure or rewards (you can always give rewards to your good boy or girl).
Keep in mind that in distracting environments, you will need to work again and again.
Teaching verbal commands. fading lures
Fading lures:  this is an awesome way to teach your verbal commands. this is indicative learning; One step leads to the next. 
sit: if you have been moving your hand all the way behind your dog's ears, you will try to move just to their forehead, then the brows, then the nose, then directly over the head, and then a flip of your wrist (or whatever you may want your hand command to be0.  Once your dog is anticipating, the sit is going to come. Stay very still and exclaim, "sit!"  Then move your body to give the understood hand signal. Repeat until you have shaved away all action in your hand and your dog responds to the verbal.  If your dog stops responding every time, check to make sure they understand if they do move to variance. Do not reward every time, as it becomes redundant and you devalue your rewards.
Down: if your hand is going all the way to the floor, inch it back upwards. when you are getting a consistent response, be very still, indicate your actions with a verbal "down," and repeat. 
Stay:  increase your movement by moving backwards. Utilize your verbal "Stay."  Start back small and stretch the space.  Remember to drop the hand signal you created.
Come:  when you have a consistent response to your action, repeat the process of erasing your lure and indicating your action with your verbal.  I enjoy intertwining "come" and "stay" in practice, so your dog learns to differentiate between the two. 
Heel: believe it or not, fading your heel lure is done in the same manner as every other command. Reduce your action and indicate with your verbal. 
Teaching commands. Mitigation of pressure into verbal
M.O.P. Commands:  to do this your dog needs to understand every lure.  if your dog does not understand, you will teach avoidance. 
Apply a gentle pressure up and slightly back a 45-60-degree angle ( a diagonal fashion) coming off the back of your dog's neck then use your lure. Your dog will sit. Release pressure repeat reward.  Now that your dog responds to pressure guidance (with a lure) indicate your gentle pressure guidance with the verbal command.  Down use pressure downwards, come use pressure into you in a linear fashion. Stay utilize back pressure and heel pressure into the side.  Repeat with your lures before working verbal commands. 
Why utilization of variant rewards is important
Saying "Good" is your variant reward marker.  It will allow you to tell your dog that they are doing the correct thing and to please continue doing it.  It will also help you extend your commands.  
Variant rewards create anticipation of the reward which in turn increases the dopamine production in your dog's brain, this is the reward chemical; it will increase desire to complete a task. We understand this through the study of canine neuro-psychology.  
If you always reward your dog, the reward will become redundant. it is best to keep your dog on their toes. 
Leash correction vs pressure guidance
A leash correction is a different action than pressure guidance.  A leash correction is indicated by your verbal "no."  You will also use escalatory corrections, meaning this correction was soft and had no value, then a little harder, a little harder, and you will continue to increase the level until it has value to the dog.  
The series could occur like this: 
"no", accompanied with a pop of leash (level 1)... pop (level 2)... pop (level 3)... pop (level 4)... pop (level 5)... (dog exhibits response)... stop.   
If your dog waits to respond to level 5, Start at level 5, then try 4.  if it doesn't work go to 5, then 4, then 5, then 4, if it worked, repeat, then 3, if it doesn't work use 4.  
if your verbal "no" indicates a working level and your dog responds to the "no," you do not have to utilize a correction.  at that point your dog did the right thing. 
A leash correction is a gentle jolt on the leash that works, whereas pressure guidance is a fluid motion. 
Reinforced recall : What you need
You need a long line, slip collar, e-collar (10 ft, 15ft, 20ft 50ft etc.), and a friend.   
What long line to buy: I suggest that you Use Wilson's gun dog supply (https://wilsonsgundogsupply.com/).  They custom-make leash and slip collars and are an American family business. 
What e-collar to buy: the absolute best pet e-collar on the market is the ez-900 model from E-collar Technologies.  It is $200 (you can purchase from us; it supports our rescue and service dog training https://lovemydog.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fez900).  this comes with a 2-year warranty.  they have stellar customer service and use medical grade equipment; I have been 15 feet underwater with my tools and it has stood the test of time.  What's more is that they are American made.  The timing of the tool is the most important aspect. There is no lag on either end.
Reinforced recall with longline
Longline mitigation of pressure:  you or your friend will hold your dog as close to the collar as possible. The other person will walk to the end of the leash.  Give your dog a Verbal "come!"  Apply a continual pressure by reeling your dog in like a fish until their intention is to come to you. When they have made their decision to come, mark it and reward. (do this to keep tension on the leash so your dog doesn't trip over it)
Reinforced recall with e-collar
Application of the remote training collar:  start with a tone. I love the EZ900 because the tone will stay on as long as you hold the button this allows clear concise communication.   Whoever holds the dog holds the remote for the e-collar so it is easier for the reeler to reel-in and reward. The tone turning on indicates the start of a task, the tone turning off means you completed the task. If you turn the tone off during the wrong behavior you communicated that your dog made the correct choice.  
Tone will eventually habituate (a gradual desensitization to it, your dog will learn they may make the decision to ignore it), so we want to move from tone.  when the dog ignores it, move to a verbal "no" accompanied with vibration.  We want to work on vibration/stim (on the lowest level required to create a response) in a controlled setting. 
Repeat the starting of e-collar training, reeling in like a fish with vibration/stim for an extremely high-value reward. If you can page your dog with a momentary and they respond, do not use continuously, there is no need.

Final statements
Your dog is your best friend: train them like you love them. Treat them as if their life was short. Give them tons of love, the best treats, and some of your steak, chicken, peas, turkey, roast, ice cream, or burger, so long as they do not have food allergies. However, Do not overfeed your dog junk, as this can cause kidney disease. 
Love them with all your heart, but also set boundaries for their safety and your sanity. Don't let your dog bully you or others. Obedience is supposed to be fun and unlock new levels of freedom for your dog. In short, obedience is freedom when done right. Obedience is fun for you and your dog!  
Support your local reputable rescue or local reputable breeder. Use your training tools responsibly! Fully love your dogs as much as you can, they are truly a blessing for us to experience as our family members.