GOING HOME
This information will provide some suggestions to aid you on your trip home as well as to help you during the important first few months at home.
Before discussing some information about your first trip to the airport with this dog, there are a few general items worth mentioning.  As each class leaves The Seeing Eye there are different challenges based on the time of year.  These might be weather issues or holiday challenges.  As you leave to travel to different parts of the country, your dog may be subjected to changes in temperature from what they have been used to in Morristown during their training period.  It is important for you to be aware of how this might affect your dog.  Cold temperatures are not really that much of a problem for the average dog, though snow conditions can be an issue from a work standpoint.  Depending on the snowfall in Morristown during the training cycle, your dog may have had limited experience with work in snow.  Though they seem to pick up on the responsibilities of guiding under these conditions naturally, they are just lacking in experience and may need encouragement to climb over or look for narrow openings in snow mounds, for example.  If you have been home for some time before these conditions occur, then the dog’s familiarity with guiding you and working in your area might make this a non-issue.  If you have just arrived home to these conditions, you would be adding this new challenge to the many changes that your dog already faces when they go home with you at the end of class.  It is important to remember that support and encouragement is essential at this time.  The dog booties you have used in class are very helpful in protecting your dog’s feet from the salts and chemicals used to keep the sidewalks clear of ice.

Temperature changes at the upper end of the scale are much more of a concern for dogs.  The dog’s heat exchange system is really based upon panting.  It is somewhat limiting and they will get hot faster and stay hot longer than humans.  Heat stroke can be deadly in dogs, so it essential that you are mindful of this if you live in areas that reach high temperatures.  It is normal to have the average dog show some reaction to the initial temperature changes of the season, but in a short time they typically get acclimated to that jump in temperature and then might only show reaction to the more extreme changes. Most people in hot areas will try to plan their walks for the cooler times of the day, carry extra water, and use booties to protect their dog’s feet from getting burned by the hot sidewalks.  If you have to wait for public transportation, it might be good to find out if there is a shady spot nearby.  If you suspect your dog is having a serious reaction to the heat, you can cool them by splashing water on them (on their head, their belly and feet) or wrapping them in a cool wet towel.  A call to the Vet is probably advisable because of the seriousness of the dog remaining overheated for too long.
As each class of students heads home from The Seeing Eye, there are additional challenges when major holidays and typical times of celebration occur right after you arrive home.  Instead of having some time to quietly acclimate your dog to its new situation, you are thrown into activities and parties that go along with certain holidays.  If you have just arrived home, it might be advisable to skip some of your usual activities for this year.  If there are things that you feel you must attend, look for ways to take the pressure off your dog- going sighted guide or settling in one spot to allow other people to come see you might be two ways to ease the pressure on your new dog.  Remember that gatherings of people running through the house increases the risk of doors or gates being left open and having your dog with you, whether you have recently arrived home or have had your dog for years, is always a way to assure good behavior and avoid tragic accidents.
While in class, most of your travel has been in large vans, or perhaps a mini-van.  When you return home you may be faced with squeezing your dog into the smaller spaces of a passenger car.  As the safety improvements for people have been added to cars, the challenges of car travel for the guide have increased.  The passenger side airbag, present in all cars nowadays, is a significant danger to a guide riding on the floor in the front seat of a car.  It is essential, for the dog’s safety that the dog is laying down at your lap level or below.  Achieving this in some of the compact cars is a challenge!  Often times, removing the harness can help the dog to curl more comfortably into the limited space at your feet.  The easiest “generic” way to get a dog into this space seems to be to sit on the seat with your feet outside of the vehicle and then bring the dog in onto the floor.  As you ask the dog to sit, push their hindquarters forward into the space under the dash, then check for and tuck in their tail and feet before bringing your feet into the vehicle.  Your feet should stay to the right, while the dog has the space to the left.  Some steady pressure downward and into their chest with the leash will help the dog to “fold” themselves down into the floor space.  The dog’s head should rest to the left no higher than your lap level.  It is also safe if your dog is small enough to curl in a ball under your legs.  Another safe spot for the dog to ride is on the floor in the backseat.  With a little effort you can teach your dog to stay on the floor in the back, while you shift to the front seat.  In case of an accident, the dog is held safely between the backseat and the back of the front seat.  Though from a training standpoint it is not generally recommended, some people allow their dogs to ride on the seat.  This is like an un-strapped child and, in the event of an accident; the dog could be thrown through a window and/or seriously injured.  If you choose to have your dog on the seat, you could run the retractable seat belt through the dog’s harness body and snap it into the receptacle to give the dog some safety in the event of a sudden stop, turn or accident.  For those people who like to put their dog in the cargo area of a hatchback or SUV, some kind of containment should be provided.  A crate is obviously the safest alternative, in any vehicle large enough to hold one.  If that is not an option for you, you could attach a tie-down to the small metal latch located on the floor of the cargo area.  It is designed for the strap from a child’s carseat.  Put the other clip around one of the harness body straps and clip it back on itself.  Though this is certainly not a perfect solution, it might keep the dog from getting thrown around the vehicle, providing some element of safety.  Knowing your own travel situations, you will have to make your own choices about where your dog rides as you travel in a car, but safety should certainly be a primary factor in your decision.
As you head for home from class, many of you will be heading to the airport.  If you live locally, and are going home by car, hopefully some of the following information will come in handy when you do have the occasion to fly with your dog.  The current travel climate requires you to allow a fair amount of time to get through the airport and security systems.  It might be beneficial to reduce the amount of food on the morning of your flight due to the length of time until the dog will be able to park.  As you deal with the security checkpoints, you should know several things.  You cannot be asked to give up your dog to anyone- it is against the law.  It is also against the law for anyone to ask you to remove your dog’s harness.  You can have your dog sit and rest in front of the archway detector, then keep your arms in close as you go through the arch because it will be triggered by any contact with the sides.  If you pass through without a problem, you may want to make the attendant aware of it before you call your dog to you.  The dog will set off the alarm, but by making the attendant aware of your clear passage, you may get by with only your dog being examined.  You can ask for a hand examination for your dog if the wand is frightening to them and it is reasonable to ask the examiner to let you know what they are doing as they examine your dog.  Another option would be to let the attendants know that you plan on working your dog through the archway, knowing you will set off the detector, and that you and your dog will need to be examined by hand and/or wand on the other side.  Another security device, which is probably found primarily in major airports, is something we call “the puffer machine”.  This is a machine that is designed to detect explosive residue on your body and clothing by blasting shots of air, from both sides, from your head to your feet.  You are required to stand on a particular spot and hold your hands at your side.  The device may or may not be enclosed.   These devices are not good for the dogs as the air blasts can be particularly unnerving for even the most confident dog.  The puffer machines are currently used for screening on a random selection basis and, since you are accompanied by a Seeing Eye dog, you should not be selected to pass through them.  However, if you find yourself being ushered into this type of screening system, you should ask to be taken through standard security.  If you encounter any resistance, it would be appropriate to ask for a supervisor.
As you move through the airport, it is best to avoid any moving sidewalks, as they put your dog at risk to catch their toes as you come to the end.  Getting off of them is similar to an escalator, but without a warning for the end and with a drastic pace change upon departure that may cause the dog to freeze and not get clear of the teeth of the sidewalk, the risk is even greater.  In fact, with the number of people who stand blocking the moving sidewalks, it is often easier to move more quickly without riding them.  In addition, there are often stairs and escalators side by side in airports; so avoiding the risk of the escalators right before you plan to travel might be the smarter choice.
When you leave The Seeing Eye, your dog will probably be experiencing its first flight on an airplane.  This also may be your first flight with a dog.  There are several helpful suggestions that have come from other graduates, which may help you out.  The people behind the ticket counter often lack experience with passengers traveling with Seeing Eye dogs.  It is always best to open the lines of communication yourself- a useful way is by asking if your flight is full.  This gives you information about your options for your seating arrangements, but more importantly, it lets the person behind the counter know that they can communicate with you regarding any questions they might have with your travel.    In making your seating arrangements you have several options.  The bulkhead seat can give your dog the most room, but only if the seat next to you is empty.  If there is no empty seat, your dog will be lying on the feet of your fellow passengers.  Many airlines will recommend the bulkhead seating, not realizing that your dog will fit comfortably and often feel more secure under the seat in front of you in a non-bulkhead row.  There is no airline regulation that requires you to sit in a bulkhead row, but the confusion comes because their policy is to make sure that a bulkhead is available to you, if you request it.  In general, an aisle seat is never recommended as nothing prevents your dog’s tail and feet from extending into the walkway.  The window seat insures that no one will have to climb over your dog during the flight. If you are able to block off a seat, you’ll want to put your dog under the window seat of the row in front of you, while you sit in the seat toward the aisle. If you fly often, you might reach a point where you do not take the dog’s harness off, however, on this FIRST flight, it might be a good idea.  The new harnesses are stiff and, not only do the handles stick up higher, but the chest strap sticks out a lot, making it very easy for the dog to chew on it to pass the time!  To store the harness in a spot convenient for you to access, you can turn it handle down, and slide it down between the window seat armrest and the outside of the plane.  This “stows” it so that the flight attendants are satisfied and it is easy for you to access at the end of your flight.  To get your dog situated, it is easiest to take the harness off first, out in the aisle, then back the dog in, toward the outside of the plane.  When they are in front of the window seat, have them sit and then push them under the seat in front of you, with their head facing you.   Once you are settled into your seat, you can make a long leash and loop the “handle” around your seatbelt while you are strapped in your seat.  This assures that your dog is attached to you throughout the flight, just in case you decide to sleep or there is some sudden turbulence.
The take-off and landing are the times that your dog might show some concern.  This anxiety is normal and stems from the dog’s inexperience with the G-force, noise and vibration of airplane flight.  It is important to be prepared for any behavior your dog may exhibit. It is also important that you stay awake so that you can offer support to your dog when the plane does begin to taxi and prepare for take-off.  It may be best to allow your dog to sit, keeping your hands on the collar on either side to help him feel secure during the take-off.  This will reassure the dog that everything is fine, but most importantly; your calm demeanor will also help to ease your dog’s anxiety.  Your dog should settle nicely once the plane has leveled off.  Most dogs are unconcerned by flying, and you should have few difficulties in this area.  If you find you need to use the bathroom on the airplane, it is unlikely that you will be able to fit in with your dog, unless there is a handicapped bathroom with more space on your plane.  The best choice for you at this stage is to take the dog to the bathroom with you and have a flight attendant hold them right outside the bathroom.  When they know you are just on the other side of the door, there is less potential for anxiety.
This trip is both an exciting and confusing one for your dog.  They will feel your excitement at getting home, but for them everything familiar has been left behind.  Rather than add to any pressure your dog might feel at this time, and to allow you to focus on the family or friends who may be meeting you, it is recommended that you travel sighted-guide through the airport.  This will be less stressful for your dog and for the person assisting you.  If you have not already given your dog a chance to park at the airport upon your arrival, you should definitely give it a try when you get home.  Unfortunately, many dogs are confused by this change of park place and are reluctant to oblige.  It is very important that you sound patient and encouraging to create a positive environment for parking and the first successful park is very important to acknowledge with enthusiasm.  This is a great opportunity for positive patterning.

If you have other dogs at home, it is best to introduce them to their new family member outside, in a more neutral area.  If you are returning to a retired guide or a pet who is particularly attached to you, it might be best to have someone hold your new dog, while you go in briefly to greet your retired dog or pet privately.  It can help to get the initial excitement of seeing you after such a long time out of the way so that when your old dog comes out to meet the new one, their focus can be more directed at the dog.  Your pet or retiree should be leashed in order to control the introduction on both sides.  For more than one dog, it is best to bring out one dog at a time so as not to overwhelm the new dog.  Then, you can take your new dog into the house first, before the pet or retiree.  If you have had a successful parktime, you can show your new dog around the house, letting them get acquainted with their new home and its smells.  If your dog has not yet parked, it might be advisable to relax for a while and try parking again before giving your dog a chance to sniff around!  In most instances, cats in the home will avoid and observe your new dog from a safe distance.  Since the new dog will be on leash or bed chain for some time, the issue of chasing or over-exuberance on the part of the dog should be controlled.  You can also put your cat in a crate to provide the cat with safety, while allowing the dog to take a closer look.  Be cautious with the introduction of smaller furry or feathered creatures, as some dogs may be more instinctive in their reaction.

It is strongly recommended that your dog remain on leash, or bed chain, with you for at least two weeks.  This is the time that you will set the behaviors you want to live with for the life of your dog.  It has been quite some time since your dog has been in a true home environment, and it is only fair to show him exactly how you want him to behave before giving him the freedom to do anything wrong.  It is also important because he will need to get comfortable with his new park place, and reliable in this area, before being given freedom in the house.  If, after two weeks, your dog is still not set in a park schedule, do not begin to give freedom in the house.  It is well worth the effort of going a little longer with restriction than to risk developing the bad pattern of having accidents in the house.  By having your dog with you at this time in your adjustment you will also help him stay focused on you as his partner.  Remember, he has only known you a short time, and although he may be joining a family, it is important that you be the one to take of him now.  There is plenty of time in future for him to become comfortable with someone else taking care of him.
      It is very common for dogs to go off their feed in this early transition time.  It is important not to worry about this, if they are acting fine.  Offer the food for fifteen to twenty minutes and remove it if they are not eating.  Cutting down the amount of food until the appetite returns reduces waste and encourages finishing the bowl.  It is also important to offer water regularly during their restricted first few weeks.  Once given freedom, your dog should have free-choice water, though it is always good to be aware of how much water is being ingested.

After two weeks, if a park schedule has been established, you can give your dog a little freedom.  It is best to start with a short period of time, after the dog has emptied at park and at a time that is quieter in your household.  This will set your dog up for success.  With anything new, good common sense and a gradual approach will contribute to a positive result.  Although you’ll be returning to what was probably already a busy schedule, your dog will benefit greatly from having a little time set aside for just the two of you.  It is easy for the dog to get a little lost in the hectic period which follows your being away from your family and work for such a long time.  For those of you who have had dogs before, it is important to remember that your new dog will need more time initially than your previous dog, so you need to adjust your schedules accordingly.  A little extra time invested now will go a long way in the big picture.

If you have the luxury of a few free days before returning to work, you will be able to ease your dog into its new life.  Your first trip with your dog should be set up with success in mind.  It should be short, familiar, as easy as possible, and followed on your return by lots of praise.  Success will build confidence not just for each of you individually, but more importantly, for the two of you as a team.  You can expand on this easy, first route in the first few days, preparing for the return to your more rigorous schedule.  If you can do a dry run to your office or work place when things are quiet, it will certainly ease the pressures of your first day back.  As you return to your normal schedule, it is essential that you get regular work with your dog on a daily basis.  A certain amount of mileage will help to hone your skills as a team.  The exercise will provide an outlet for youthful energy that might otherwise show up as social misbehavior.  Rather than being picked up at your door, you can meet your ride along the route, or perhaps you can be dropped off a distance from your destination.  Consider this slight change in your schedule as a ten-year investment in your skills as a team.

If you need orientation assistance on any of your routes, a sighted guide can help you by going through the orientation-coaching-solo patterning process.  This can be very helpful in establishing success in a confusing or difficult area.

During this early adjustment period it is important to keep up with your obedience exercises, as well as introducing “go to your place” in your dog’s new home.  This will be an especially helpful exercise when things are hectic at home in the future.  Your dog’s place will provide a safe spot from which he can observe life in the home.  Once established, it is also an exercise that can be used to control your dog’s activity when you are answering the door.   Having a leash hanging near the door is another way to insure that as you greet visitors, your dog does not jump on or slip out past your guests.  Your diligence working on long-line obedience exercises can also help to improve your dog’s response when you call him, in case he does get loose.

Remember, as obedient and well educated as your dog may be in harness, once loose, uncontained, he is like any other dog and just as vulnerable to the dangers he may face in this situation.  If you feel the need to let your dog run free, it should always be in a secure, fenced area.  Although your dog may enjoy running around a bit, he is people-oriented and will often prefer to be with you.  If left unsupervised in a fenced area, your dog may develop habits which are undesirable in the big picture, for example: barking, chasing birds or squirrels, or becoming destructive out of boredom.  It is also recommended that you continue parking your dog on leash and cleaning up after him despite the luxury of having a fenced yard.  This will allow you to know for sure what your dog has done or not done at park.  In addition, if your dog is not feeling well, you will often be able to tell quickly, by a change in the bowel movements, detected when you clean up after your dog at park.  It is nice to know if things are not normal before you go off for the day.

These first few weeks home with your dog will be challenging.  You will be juggling your time between family, work, and your new dog initially, but with good common sense and your support, your dog will begin to fit in as a natural part of your life.  Once the bond between you and your dog has strengthened in your home environment and your dog is comfortable with his new role, you can begin to expose him to being left alone.  There are certainly places you may want to go where you may not need your dog, or your dog may not be very comfortable.  Again, you want to ease your dog into this gradually.  Doing so will increase your chances of success.  Just as you did in class, begin by leaving your dog for a very brief time.  Try to position yourself so that you can go back and scold your dog if he gets into trouble.  Then leave again.  If your dog is behaving, return and praise him.  You can gradually extend the time away with continued success.  If you are ever leaving your dog on a bed chain while you are not in the same room, you should attach the tie-down to the dead ring or over the collar chain itself to avoid having the dog get tangled with a tightening collar.  It is also important to avoid putting a tie-down or chain in a location where your dog might get tangled or fall, allowing the collar to tighten around his neck.  As your dog gets comfortable with being left alone while you are relatively close by and time has passed to the point where the dog is comfortable with their new home, you may take the opportunity to leave them at home when you do, in fact, go out somewhere.  Though a tie down might be an option for a very short trip out, it might not be as safe a choice for leaving a dog for any length of time.  If you feel your dog is trustworthy to be left loose, it is probably best to start with leaving them in a space you can restrict and “dog-proof” appropriately.  Another option, and perhaps the safest, is to consider using a crate to contain your dog while you are away.  Many of our dogs get exposure to crates while in their puppy homes and most of them look at the crate as a safe haven; their own little den.  You can put their mat and toys in with them and they will often be very comfortable.  There are many kinds of crates to choose from, from airline safe to wire to soft-sided- you would want to choose one appropriate for your particular dog.  If you choose to get a crate, it is probably advisable to allow your dog to adapt to it gradually.  You can start by leaving the door open, allowing them to come and go as they please and progress to closing them in for a few minutes at a time.  This assures that your dog is introduced to the new crate in a positive way and will allow for a smooth transition as you start to leave them for longer periods.  When using your crate to leave your dog home unattended, it is advisable, for safety, to remove their collar to prevent it from getting caught anywhere inside the crate.
Finally, it is never appropriate to leave your dog in a car or tied out where heat exposure or theft could result in tragedy.  This dog is your new partner and his safety is your responsibility.
As you bond and work together, you will develop a relationship with your dog that is difficult to explain to others.  You will have a connection and an understanding between you that few will recognize or understand.  As you travel in your home community, it is normal to encounter questions and sometimes interference from people who do not intend to cause you difficulty.  It is only because they don’t understand your working relationship with your dog that this happens.  By being polite and courteous and developing a brief explanation, you will limit the interference and educate to prevent more in the future.  As distracting as public interference can be, you will generally make it worse if you lose your temper.  You will be provided with access cards in your going home packet.  These can be helpful in many situations because they give The Seeing Eye as a resource if someone needs more information and they explain, briefly, the laws regarding access.  You can call The Seeing Eye to get more cards or some assistance in dealing with access difficulties at any time.

 This is a most exciting time in your partnership with your new dog.  During your stay at The Seeing Eye, this bonding process has only just begun.  It is important for you to know that the normal adjustment time with your dog, the time during which you really get to know one another, is six months to a year.  In this early period you will be working to make this relationship work as you would any other relationship.  The effort you extend and your desire to make it work will result in teamwork unlike any you have experienced before.  It is important that you know that you can call for assistance at any time.  If you are having a problem that you aren’t sure how to handle, the quicker you call for advice to solve it, the easier it may be to overcome.  Hopefully, the difficulties will be few, and your relationship with your dog will be a long and happy one.  Congratulations and good luck with your dog.
08/2007

LJ/ncn