DOG CARE & SUPPLIES


This information covers caring for and medicating your dog. At the end, there will also be a list of contact information for companies selling general pet supplies, some specific product names, as well as some of the different products we supply you with in class, but do not carry in our inventory for future orders.
The dog care topics covered are giving pills, administering liquid medication, brushing your dog’s teeth, ear cleaning, and the application of our flea and tick preventive, Frontline Plus. Though some of you may have done these things with previous dogs or pets, it is always good to familiarize yourself with your new dog’s response to these procedures. There will be a verbal description of each of these topics and we will practice them hands-on when we get together during class.
Pills:
The most effective way to be sure your dog has swallowed a pill is to push it down their throat on the tip of your finger. Hiding pills in food is not a foolproof way to be sure it goes down, and could be unacceptable if a particular medication demands an empty stomach to be effective. The first step is to have your pill positioned between the thumb and index finger of your “best” hand. Put your free hand over the dog’s muzzle and find the gap right behind the canine teeth on either side. Squeeze in and pull up with your thumb and index finger. At the same time, use the last 2-3 fingers of your pilling hand to pry the lower jaw down. Once the mouth is open, you put your WHOLE hand into the dog’s mouth, following the roofline of the mouth, and poke the pill over the back of the tongue. Remove your hand from the dog’s mouth, and close the mouth with both hands. You can stroke their throat with one hand, or blow in their nose, to make them swallow. Some dogs will hold the pill, without swallowing, and spit it out once you release their muzzle.  This will happen especially when you do not get the pill far enough down the dog’s throat.
Liquid Medication:
There is not a big call for administering medication in a liquid form. Pills and injections can cover most of your needs now that the anti-diarrhea medications come in pill form.  If your dog has diarrhea, there are two things you should do right away. The first is to start fasting your dog. Food just fuels the fire of an upset intestine, so it is best to let the system clear itself. The second step is to make an objective assessment of your dog’s condition. If they are acting as if nothing is wrong- normal energy level and eagerness to work- but happen to have diarrhea, you can probably fast them until the upset has passed, then start them back on a small amount of their regular food, or some plain white rice. If they are not acting themselves- depressed or lethargic- you are fine to start fasting them, but then you should probably call your Veterinarian’s office for advice, as their depression could be the symptom of something more serious. You would not want to mask the symptoms of a bigger problem or keep the dog’s system from ridding itself of a problem by administering an anti-diarrhea medication inappropriately.  In either case, it is important that your dog have access to water, as diarrhea will deplete their system and can cause dehydration.  It is advisable to keep your dog close to you in this situation, as park time may require some urgency and it will be important to be able to respond quickly if needed.  If your dog is having diarrhea, but acting fine and your circumstances for that day make it difficult to get to park often or easily, you might feel more comfortable if you can slow the dog’s system down a bit with an anti-diarrhea medication. The chewable form of Pepto-Bismol may be ineffective in dogs since they do not chew them.  Pepto-Bismol, Kaopectate and Imodium all come in a pill form that can be put down the dog’s throat. Your veterinarian may have a preference for one brand over another.  If you speak to your Vet about keeping a first aid kit at home and discuss their feelings on this topic, you will have the supplies and knowledge to treat the situation as it arises.  You can also discuss the proper dosage for your dog.
If you find that a liquid medication is necessary, the safest way to administer it is using a syringe or a mini turkey baster. You draw up the liquid in the applicator and slide it into the “cheek pouch” of the dog’s mouth. You want to keep the dog’s mouth closed so that the tongue is not involved at all.  This will also reduce the risk of the liquid going down the wrong way, causing the dog to aspirate the medication.  The syringe or baster will be slid alongside the teeth, pointing to the back of the throat. You tip the dog’s head back to allow gravity to work for you, so that as you release the medication into the “cheek pouch” it will run to the back of the throat. As the liquid gathers there, the dog will have to swallow, if you do not allow them to open their mouth. You will want to start releasing the liquid slowly, only quickening as the dog starts to swallow. Then hold everything in place until the dog finishes swallowing. If your applicator is removed prematurely, the remaining liquid is likely to come out through the gap that you create in the front of the mouth.
Teeth Brushing:
Our Veterinarians feel strongly that you can make a difference in your dog’s oral hygiene and health by brushing your dog’s teeth once a day.  The obvious reasons for this are the reduction in “doggy breath” and avoiding the high costs associated with a dental cleaning.  Since your dogs are out in public, in close proximity with people who may not be as dog oriented as you or your family, it is important to do your best to keep them well-groomed overall.  Bad breath from excessive tartar build-up on the teeth has a very offensive odor to those near-by.  A routine dental cleaning at the Veterinarian’s office can be quite expensive and inconvenient.  The charges can often include blood work and anesthesia charges, as well as the actual cleaning.  In addition, you cannot work your dog that day because of the anesthesia.  As your dog gets older, the health of the mouth is especially important.  The mouth is very vascular and is a pathway to the rest of the body.  Bacteria in the mouth will happily and easily migrate to any area of the body and this could result in a serious health risk as the effects of age or any other problem compromise your dog’s organs.  The tartar build-up in a dog’s mouth is generally on the outside surfaces of the teeth, along the gum-tooth margin.  This is convenient for us because these surfaces are easily accessed.  The back molars will get less natural rinsing, and have more crevices for food bits to gather, so they will usually show tartar build-up first.  Because of this, it is especially important to brush the back molars thoroughly and then work your way forward to the canine teeth.  The front incisors do not seem to have much of a tartar problem so they are not as important.  The four areas of importance are the upper and lower gum-tooth margins on the left and right side of the dog’s mouth.  By keeping your dog’s mouth CLOSED, you can access this area without allowing the dog to chew on your brushing implement of choice.  Due to the overlap of the upper jaw, you will probably need to allow the dog to open their mouth slightly in order to get the lower gum-tooth margin.
There are several options available to you for brushing your dog’s teeth.  Whichever method you and your dog are most comfortable using is probably the method you should choose because, in the end, this will make you more likely to brush your dog’s teeth on a daily basis.  The standard soft-bristled toothbrush, made for people or animals, is one choice.  You want to use dog toothpaste however, because dogs will swallow the cleaning agent and human toothpaste could make them sick.  Many people shy away from this method because it is awkward not being able to feel the surface you are working on.  This often creates a tendency to try to brush really hard to be sure that you are getting all the surfaces thoroughly.  If the brushing is painful to the dog, they will struggle and then so will you.  If you try a regular toothbrush, remember it is the light brisk action of disturbing the surface the tartar is trying to settle on that makes it effective, not the pressure.  By holding only the very end of the brush, away from the bristles, it will prevent you from pressing too hard.  The next option is the finger brush.  This is a small rubber finger cover with a small area of rubber bristles for brushing.  You apply a small amount of dog toothpaste to the bristle area and slide your finger into the “cheek pouch” of the dog’s mouth while holding the mouth shut with your other hand.  The finger brush gives you a much better feel of the area you are trying to keep clean.  There are lots of finger brushes on the market, but one, which has a larger brushing area (more bristles), is made by a company called Four Paws/Pet Dental.  It is green in color and has been found on the shelves at Petco.  The last option is using a teeth-cleaning pad.  The advantage to opting for this type of pad is that they are pre-treated with a cleaning agent, so there is no toothpaste mess.  In addition, when you wrap the pad around your finger, any area that is wrapped by the pad is a brushing surface.  You do not have to struggle as much to get the bristles around to the surface you are trying to reach, though some people find it hard to keep these pads in place as they brush.  The most common teeth cleaning pad these days is a pre-moistened pad that comes in a pop-up dispenser similar to a canister of “Wet Ones”.  They can be found at retail pet stores or through catalog outlets.  You will see a retail mark-up from the stores, so you may find the catalog stores offer better prices, even with shipping costs.
Once again, the method that is most comfortable for you to use will probably be the most successful for you, because you will be more likely to make it a part of your regular routine.  Feel free to try different methods while you are here and remember that this is not only new to you, but also to your dog, so it will be important to create a positive feeling about this new activity.  There are a variety of toys, as well as lots of different products that are marketed for breath and teeth issues.  Some of the toys can be very helpful in keeping tartar from forming due to the scraping and gnawing the dog does interacting with the toy.  In general, it is wise to avoid most of the edible products since they are usually not effective, cost a fair amount and can add calories to your dog’s diet.
Ear Cleaning:
The current approach to ear care at The Seeing Eye involves an “if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it “ approach.  The Veterinarians feel that if your dog’s ears are well, there is no need to put a lot of “stuff” in there.  It is important to be alert to your dog’s ear health through regular monitoring of the smell inside the ear.  The first sign of a problem is a bad smell from deep in the ear.  Other early signs are repeated head shaking, scratching or rubbing. If everything seems to be fine, then you can wipe out your dog’s ears with a good quality ear cleaner once a month or once every couple of months.  The best type of cotton wipe to use is a cotton cosmetic square.  They are available at the drug store in packages of 100-200 and are quite inexpensive.  They are the perfect size and thickness to allow easy access to the opening to the ear.  A small amount of a good, drying ear cleaner should be applied to the center of the cotton square.  Put your index fingertip behind that wet spot and, after lifting the earflap firmly with your other hand, stick your fingertip down into the ear.  You want to wipe out the folds inside the ear slowly and deliberately.  The more firmly you hold the earflap up and away from the dog’s head, the easier it will be to wipe out the inside of the ear.  When you pull the cotton square out of the ear, it should be molded to your fingertip almost up to the first joint.  This will let you know that you are getting down into the ear. The residue on the cotton should be minimal if everything is well.  There would be more substantial residue if there were a problem.  This would be a tacky, smelly, dark-colored smear on the cotton.  This is a very non-invasive method for cleaning out the ear, as it does not put a lot of liquid into the ear.  If you need to treat an infection, you do need to get the liquid cleaner down deep into the ear canal.  In that case, you would put the liquid into the ear, massage the base of the ear to spread the cleaner and loosen the debris down deep.  Then allow the dog to shake its head to bring out that debris to where you can reach it and then wipe out the ear with a dry cotton square.  You never want to use a Q-tip in your dog’s ear as you could damage the eardrum.  With your finger, you CANNOT get down around the bend in the ear canal, so you do not have to worry about putting your fingertip down into the dog’s ear.  Early detection is the best way to reduce the length of treatment of an infection.  The environment inside a dog’s ear is a wonderful place for yeast and bacteria to thrive, so if you can stay on top of your dog’s ear health by “sniffing” the ear and being alert to the other signs of a problem, you will greatly reduce the need for treatment.  Some good ear-cleansing agents are:
Gent-L-Clens, made by Schering Plough
Epi-Otic, made by Allerderm
Alocetic, made by DVM Pharmaceuticals
Oti-Clens, made by SmithKline Beecham

Frontline Plus:
Frontline Plus is the flea and tick preventive that we use at The Seeing Eye.  We will send you home with some vials to get you started as well.  This is one of the safest and most reliable products available, though there are also other choices on the market.  For prevention of ticks, the product must be applied once a month.  Due to the seriousness of some of the tick-borne diseases, you may want to take a more pro-active approach if you are likely to be out in areas where ticks are prevalent.  The additional application of a tick-killing spray onto your dog’s haircoat before going out in tick areas may give you a more “repellent” effect than the topical – in the skin layer – product.  You must use a spray that can be used safely in conjunction with your Frontline.
When worried only about fleas, there is some flexibility, from once a month to once every three months.  You can make the decision on the frequency of the application based on your climate and the likelihood of exposure in your own environment.  It is important to note that fleas and ticks do survive on their warm-blooded hosts year round, despite harsh weather.  They might not survive long in the environment, but if you come along before they perish, they will hop aboard.  Cats who go outside can also bring fleas into the house year round.  The Frontline Plus includes an insect growth regulator, which interrupts the life cycle of the flea as it develops, as well as being an adulticide.  It works by spreading in the oils of the skin in order to “cover” the entire dog.  It is important not to apply the Frontline within two to three days of a bath, as the shampoo will remove the oils that allow the repellent to spread over the dog.  This also means that the “spreading” process must take two to three days.  If you have reduced your applications due to a cold winter climate, but are traveling someplace warm, it would be very important to apply your Frontline two to three days prior to travel to assure proper coverage.  The manufacturer recommends applying in a spot inaccessible to the dog to prevent them licking the product after it is applied.  The best spot is between the shoulder blades.  The liquid in the vial is pre-measured for the size of the dog and should be squeezed directly onto the skin, not the hair.  The amount of liquid for this size dog is a lot to put in one small spot of exposed skin, so an alternate option is to apply smaller amounts in several places.  If you take your metal comb and part the hair “against the grain”, there is a small “part” created near the tip of the tines.  A small amount of liquid can be applied to the exposed skin.  You can move up from the shoulder blade area, using two or three spots between there and back of the skull.  This allows you to apply a smaller amount in each spot, getting more of the liquid onto the skin, and should avoid the big, gooey wet spot that results when the whole vial is squeezed onto one spot.
What follows is contact information for some companies that carry general pet supplies, some product names, and some of the products that are given out during class, but not stocked for future purchases:
For General Supplies:
Cherrybrook ~ 1-800-524-0820 or cherrybrook.com
Cherrybrook has offered Seeing Eye Graduates a 10% discount on all products ordered through the website, the toll-free number, or in their retail store in Broadway, New Jersey.  The promotional code is EYE30 (it is case sensitive).  This is an offer that is available exclusively to Seeing Eye Graduates.
JB Wholesale Pet Supplies ~ 1-800-526-0388 or jbpet.com
JB may give a small discount if you tell them you are a Seeing Eye Graduate.  They have no minimum order.
Pet Edge ~ 1-800-PET-EDGE (738-3343) or petedge.com
Pet Edge is a company with which we do a fair amount of business.  They often have very good prices, and may have some quantity discounts, but they charge a fee, in addition to shipping charges, on any orders of less than $60.  Our current class teeth cleaning pad is from Pet Edge.  It is called Pro Dental.
KV Vet Supply ~ 1-800-423-8211 or kvvet.com
KV Vet often has price discounts for ordering more than three of a particular item.  They also offer free shipping on many of their products, but they do charge a nominal fee on any order that totals less than $50.
Pick-up bags:
S. Walter Packaging Co. ~1-800-523-8888
The item number is HM 8 ~ Ask for TEAL bags with NO handle.  The price is $29.10, plus shipping for 1000 bags.  You must tell them you are a Seeing Eye grad and they will waive their $50 minimum.
Mutt Mitts ~ 1-859-689-7200 or muttmitts.com
These extend up your arm like a long mitten, with a reinforced mitten-type end for your pick-up hand.
RuffWear Dog Booties: 1-888-783-3932 or ruffwear.com ~ Tell them you have a Seeing Eye dog and they will give a discount.
Dog Mats: 1-800-977-1650 or muttmats.com
Yaktrax Footwear: Scout Gear- 1-866-576-0642 or scoutgear.com
These are easily put over your shoes or boots to give traction in icy conditions, without sharp points that might injure your dog. There are two levels of Yaktrax- Walker and Pro.
Dog Food: Pet Food Direct- 1-800-865-1333 or petfooddirect.com
This company carries food, as well as other supplies. There is a 20% discount if you have a guide dog. Online, you must enter the word guidedog in the enter coupon code field and then hit the “apply discount” button to get the discount. You can arrange for automatic shipping on any time schedule that works for you.
Additional health care products and formulas follow:
Skin Moisturizers:
Alpha Keri bath oil (or the generic version) can be mixed with water and misted on the dog.  The formula is one teaspoon to one quart of water.  Using a spray bottle, the dog can be misted by ruffling the hair against the grain to allow the liquid to get to the surface of the skin.  This can help to humidify the coat.  It has a very mild fragrance.
Skin-So-Soft by Avon can be mixed with water and misted on the dog. The formula is 1.5 oz. per gallon of water.  This can help to humidify the coat, and may have some effectiveness against fleas.  It has a stronger scent.
Humilac is a skin-humidifying product made by Allerderm. It requires no dilution.
Hy Lyt EFA bath oil comes in a spray or rinse made by DVM Pharmaceuticals.
Shampoos: Bathing should always be done with a mild, non-detergent shampoo to avoid drying the skin.  Some good choices are:
Allergroom, an emollient shampoo made by Allerderm.
Hy Lyt EFA shampoo made by DVM Pharmaceuticals.
Dermal Soothe made by Evsco.
Essential Fatty Acid Supplements:
These have been found to help reduce itching due to their anti-inflammatory effect.  You can consult with your local Veterinarian for more information.  Some options are:
Derm Caps ES made by DVM Pharmaceuticals.
EFA-Z Plus, a liquid which comes in a pump form, is made by Allerderm.
EFA-Z Caps are made by Allerderm.
Pet Derm O.M. Caps Extra Strength are made by Beecham.
HEALTH INSURANCE FOR YOUR DOG:

Pet health care policies, like many types of insurance, can be confusing.  There are many variables and significant differences between coverage offered by various companies.  Some plans do not cover congenital, hereditary, and/or existing conditions.  If you are inquiring about insurance, be sure to ask for all the details and the company’s list of what they consider heritable diseases before signing up.  Another important issue to check out before signing-up is that if you are required to renew on an annual basis, do things treated on last year’s policy then become a “pre-existing condition” for the new one-year renewal?  If that is true, then next year’s policy will not cover any additional treatment needed.

In the United States:

Veterinary Pet Insurance
(800) 872-7387
Established in 1982

In United States & Canada:

Pet Care Insurance
(866) 275-7387
www.petcareinsurance.com


Pet Assure is an alternative to pet insurance.  It offers a 25% discount on all medical services to its members.  There are no deductibles, exclusion, age or health restrictions as might be found in an insurance program.  Coverage is restricted to participating veterinarians and clinics.  Pet Assure also offers discounts on pet products and services such as grooming.  To find out if Pet Assure is available in your area, contact them at 888-789-7387.

The Seeing Eye does not advocate any of these insurance programs.  We are making this information available to you for your own investigation.


Microchipping:

Some people choose to “microchip” their dogs as an additional safety measure in identifying their dogs.  Microchips are a required part of the identification process for travel to the United Kingdom or Hawaii.  The microchip is similar in size to a grain of rice, inserted under the skin somewhere in the vicinity of the shoulder blades.  The microchip is read by a scanner to confirm identification.  It is very common to find scanners as standard equipment in veterinarians’ offices and shelters.  For international travel, the chip must comply with the International Standards Organization’s requirements – referred to as ISO compliant.  There are a number of different chips that would qualify, but one of the easiest to get and use for any purpose is the Home Again chip.  The Seeing Eye now offers students in class the opportunity to purchase and implant a Home Again chip at our cost.  The Graduate’s contact information is then put on the Home Again Form and FAXed to the company by the end of class.
It is also advisable that, if you choose to microchip, you should include that chip number on all printed inoculation and veterinary records from your veterinarian’s office.  This will serve as proof that your dog received that vaccination ~ this is required for United Kingdom or Hawaiian travel.  It is also advisable to have your veterinarian verify that your chip is in good order and is still located in the same area on your dog’s body anytime you go for a vet visit.  This will avoid any surprises when you are getting the chip checked officially when you travel.  You can get the Home again form that provides you with free registration at anytime in the future if you opt not to microchip your dog while in class.  Proof that your dog is a Seeing Eye Dog would also be required to get the free registration.

07/2007
LJ/ncn